Ahoy there, Long John Silver! Two new locally owned seafood restaurants have sailed into Triangle waters. And they're both aiming to pirate away some of the casual seafood market with inexpensive seafood that's a cut above the fast food chains.

Skipper's Fish Fry & Market (303-2400), which opened earlier this month at 1001 E. Williams St. in Apex, is firing broadsides in the form of cooked-to-order seafood and scratch preparation. General manager and chef Walter "The Skipper" Bench cuts whole fish on the premises, where he also makes everything else on the menu, including tartar sauce, onion rings, fries and his signature lobster bisque.

There's a decided New England accent to the offering, which includes oversize fried seafood platters (clam strips, shrimp and fish -- cod or haddock, true to New England form). For a quick bite, there's also a fried fish sandwich, clam roll and hot dogs made with Hoffman's German-style all-meat franks. In addition to the onion rings and fries, sides include New England-style baked beans, clam chowder and -- a welcome touch for Southerners -- hushpuppies.

Homemade cobbler, Key lime pie and old-fashioned shakes and sundaes put a sweet finish on the meal. There's even a modest selection of beer (including Boston's Samuel Adams, of course) and wine.

Because Skipper's is a counter-service restaurant, prices are surprisingly modest, ranging from $4.75 for the oversize fried fish sandwich to $10.14 for the fried shrimp dinner with the works.

Meanwhile in Durham, Old Bay Seafood (286-4900) has launched a sneak attack in Northgate Mall. The fact that malls are retail waters traditionally ruled by national chains doesn't intimidate owner Zed Ayesh, who earned his restaurateur stripes as owner of Brass Grill in downtown Raleigh.

Like Skipper's, Old Bay Seafood is an order-at-the-counter-and-take-a-number sort of place. But that's about all the two restaurants have in common.

Clam chowder is the only taste of New England on Old Bay's menu, whose offering might be best described as something for everyone, with strong Cajun and Italian accents. Sometimes, those accents meld to yield the likes of Cajun scallops Alfredo.

The eclectic seafood offering runs the gamut -- shrimp burger, po' boy, Southern-fried or Cajun-fried seafood platters, grilled scallops and pesto salmon over linguine. A smattering of landlubber options include Old Bay wings, rib-eye steak and veggie arrabbiata pasta. Kids' menu offerings range from $3.95 to $4.95. See what I mean about something for everyone.

Prices are modest, with most entrees going for under $10. That includes the steak and pesto salmon, as well as shrimp scampi, grilled scallops and crab cakes.

That creaking sound you hear is Long John Silver's listing to starboard.